Winter in the valley

The Doller valley does not empty out in winter, it slows down. Snow is never guaranteed at these altitudes, but when it holds, everything happens within a few kilometres. Le Schlumpf, the ski area in the next village Seven kilometres from the gîtes, in the commune of Dolleren, Le Schlumpf is a small ski area running from 675 metres to a little over a thousand. Two drag lifts and two runs: La Verdure, red, one thousand two hundred and fifty metres long with three hundred and forty metres of vertical, and La Dolleroise, green and short, made for learning. There is also a groomed sledging run, plus snowshoe and cross-country trails. It opens on Wednesday and Friday afternoons, weekends during the day, and every day during the school holidays. Everything depends on snow cover, so check before loading the car. Ballon d'Alsace, for the wider view Half an hour away, the Ballon d'Alsace tops out at 1,247 metres and combines downhill skiing, cross-country, sledging and snowshoe routes. It is where to head when Le Schlumpf is short of snow, and the summit to climb for the view: on a clear day you can pick out the Alps, the Jura and the Black Forest. Coming back The best moment of a winter day is often the return. The wood-fired hot tub heats outside as the light goes, and the gap between cold air and hot water is worth the outing on its own. It is also the season when sleeping under canvas or in a well-heated wagon makes the most sense, with the valley silent all around.